| Jerking frantically, our jeep climbed up a dirt-road that | | | | that camels are found in the scrub forest below the |
| snaked across an alpine slope covered with sparse | | | | village, so Mark and I ventured into it. After a great |
| vegetation. We were on a quest to understand the | | | | deal of searching, we saw a pair of camels feeding |
| conservation issues related to the Bactrian camel in | | | | on leaves of stunted willow trees. Soon they joined a |
| the Nubra valley of Ladakh. Soon the Khardung La, | | | | group of thirty animals. It was a grand sighting |
| the highest motorable pass in the world, came into | | | | indeed; our efforts finally paid off. |
| view. Prayer flags, hallmark of a high pass in this part | | | | Although the domesticated Bactrian camels are |
| of the world, fluttered incessantly on a spur. | | | | abundant in central Asia, the wild form is one of the |
| Once at the top, we staggered around taking | | | | most endangered mammals on the planet with less |
| pictures of signboards with 'World's Highest Motorable | | | | than 1000 individuals surviving. They are distributed in |
| Road (18, 380 ft)' emblazoned on them. The height | | | | the Gobi desert of Mongolia, and Xinjiang and Gansu |
| soon affected us, and we quickly squeezed into the | | | | provinces of China. Despite concerted conservation |
| jeep and continued. After a relatively smooth drive | | | | efforts, its population continues to dwindle due to |
| on a macadamized road we reached at Khardung | | | | competition with livestock and poaching. |
| village. The bright green agricultural fields around the | | | | The feral camels in Nubra has long remained isolated |
| village were in stark contrast to the dark brown | | | | from the larger population in the aforementioned |
| slopes surrounding them. | | | | central Asian countries, and perhaps represent a |
| Hundreds of nature lovers visit Nubra valley every | | | | genetically distinct population. Thus they need |
| year. It is popularly known as the Valley of Flowers, | | | | immediate attention from conservationists, as they |
| and is located at about 100 km north of Leh, the | | | | are in conflict with the people. "They enter the |
| capital city of Ladakh and the erstwhile Indian | | | | fenced orchards and destroy trees" said Abdul |
| gateway to central Asia. The landscape is adorned | | | | Razaq, a villager of Hundar. "People throw axe in |
| with wild flowers, sand dunes, jagged mountains and | | | | retaliation and the animals succumb to the injuries" he |
| sea-buckthorn thickets that teem with birds and | | | | added while sipping a traditional Ladakhi tea. |
| mammals. | | | | Furthermore, some agitated villagers drown the foals |
| Sumur village was our first stop, and we stayed at | | | | by driving them into the high currents of the Shayok |
| the Stakrey Guest House with a beautiful garden in | | | | river. "People urged the district administration to |
| full bloom. Apart from delightful flowers, the owner | | | | appoint temporary guards to prevent the animals |
| had grown vegetables such as potatoes, cabbage, | | | | from entering private properties, but to no avail" said |
| cauliflower, carrots, tomatoes, etc. Next day we | | | | another villager. The situation is worsening with the |
| ventured into a side-valley to look for wildlife, but | | | | soaring needs and aspirations of the people. |
| after plodding for a while the trail faded into a | | | | Fortunately, the opening of the valley to tourists a |
| vertical cliff, and we needed to retrace our path. | | | | decade ago gave new economic opportunities. Camel |
| The afternoon was spent in the Tirit village, learning | | | | Safari is a recent initiative and is increasingly becoming |
| about the history of camel in Nubra. "Camels in the | | | | popular in the area. Young entrepreneurs are |
| valley are the descendents of a group of about 15 | | | | fascinated by this new prospect, and are increasingly |
| individuals bequeathed by the central Asian traders" | | | | taming the feral camels. However, since the animals |
| said Wangdus Norbu. The Kalon families of Tirit and | | | | have been left untended for a long time, it is often |
| Sumur, who ran a caravanserai during the heyday of | | | | difficult to recognize them in the wild. This sometimes |
| trade on the Silk Route, were the first to raise | | | | leads to scuffle amongst the alleged owners. |
| camels as draught animals. But as the road | | | | One day, we joined a group of tourists riding camels |
| infrastructure in the valley improved, thanks to the | | | | on the sand dunes near Hundar. As I sat astride and |
| Indian Army, they were abandoned. | | | | rocked on a camel trudging across the sand dunes, |
| "The trade on the Silk Route was made possible only | | | | the guide told me about this newfound business. |
| by these hardy animals" added Mr. Norbu. Bactrian | | | | Although Camel Safari enhances the income of the |
| camels can live several days without water, a feature | | | | locals, the animals seemed stressed and emaciated. |
| well recognized by the central Asian traders. "An adult | | | | The ones we rode were certainly weaker than those |
| camel can carry three times more load than that | | | | we had seen earlier in the thicket. But perhaps |
| carried by a horse" remarked another villager. The | | | | enhancing the economic value is the only way to |
| most important commodities the Yarkandi traders | | | | conserve them in the long run. |
| brought included silk, bullion, pearl and Persian rugs, | | | | "People also take a few camels to Leh every year to |
| which they bartered in Leh for spices and clothes | | | | participate in the week-long Ladakh Festival in |
| from the plains of India. The trade ended in the late | | | | September, and earn some additional income" |
| 1960s following the Sino-Indian war. | | | | snapped the guide. With this increasing business |
| After a pleasant stay at Sumur, we continued our | | | | prospect, the people of Nubra are becoming |
| journey up the valley and found a small oasis for | | | | possessive about their camels. According Abdul |
| camping. We pitched tents amongst Hippophae | | | | Razaq, people were up in arms when four Bactrian |
| bushes, laden heavily with luscious berries. An effort | | | | camels were taken for breeding in Pushkar, |
| was made to spot camels before having a dinner of | | | | Rajasthan, home to the Dromedary in India. They |
| Spaghetti. | | | | contend that if tourists see the Bactrian in Rajasthan, |
| A golden light had bathed the surrounding peaks, | | | | they (tourists) will not make an effort to come to a |
| when a roaring helicopter woke me up the next day. | | | | remote place like Nubra to see them. "Fortunately, |
| One more machine flew across before I got up. | | | | the animals did not survive in Rajasthan due to the |
| Perhaps they were carrying fresh supplies to the | | | | intense heat and were brought back" informed a |
| frontier post at the Siachen glacier, the biggest | | | | villager. |
| outside the polar region and the highest battleground | | | | We set out on the last leg of our journey to Hundar, |
| in the world. After morning ablutions we headed | | | | where we camped at Nyerchung Resort located in a |
| toward Panamik village, a much coveted destination in | | | | gorgeous orchard in the middle of the village. We |
| the valley because of its hot springs. People from all | | | | pitched our tents below an apple tree that shed its |
| over Ladakh come here to take a shower, as they | | | | fruits day and night. After a couple of memorable |
| believe that the sulphur water is a panacea for all | | | | days at Hundar, we bid adieu to Nubra and drove |
| diseases. | | | | back with the fond memories of Bactrian camels, |
| After a few days at Panamik, we went to Diskit, the | | | | hoping that they survive the negative impacts of |
| headquarters of Nubra. On arrival we explored the | | | | modern development and continue to be the |
| small market with shops selling trinkets. We were told | | | | cynosure of the valley for centuries to come. |