| Jewellery in Thailand is not only for the purpose of | | | | Stone Castle, Nakornratchsima. Pieces of gold with |
| beauty but it is also related to beliefs and faith, | | | | and without patterns for religious purposes, including |
| especially faith in religions and certain practices. Such | | | | gold ornaments offered to Deva images, such as |
| faith developed into various forms like the amulet; a | | | | necklaces and pahurad (a kind of bracelet) created |
| magical power, worn for the purpose of protection in | | | | for offering to Hinduism's devas, or bodhisattvas of |
| specific occasions such as wartime, adventure or | | | | Mahayana Buddhism, were also found. |
| wondering. Beliefs are also expressed through the | | | | Subsequently, in the nineteenth century, Thais living |
| patterns and colours of ornaments, since the | | | | around Yom Basin gathered and established the |
| discovery of precious elements, such as gold, silver | | | | Kingdom of Sukothai. The central cities were |
| and gemstones. These were brought into various | | | | Sukothai and Srisatchanarai which are now located in |
| styles of ornamentation with particular characteristics | | | | the province of Sukothai. The cities were prosperous |
| and purposes. The ornaments range from being | | | | in terms of art, culture, and economics. There are |
| decorative objects, representing status or presenting | | | | archaeological evidences and objects left until today. |
| roles in a society. The ruling class, upper class people, | | | | The designs of the uses of gold for Buddhism, |
| such as the king, specially use precious rare ones and | | | | dresses and jewellery discovered are such as, golden |
| members of the royal family, use them as sacred | | | | rings, eight petal- golden flowers at Wat Mahatath, |
| items related to certain beliefs and religions and | | | | including golden Buddha images. The time when the |
| respected by the society. Examples are the Buddha | | | | kingdom of Sukothai was located at Yom Basin was |
| images, idols and religious places. | | | | prosperous; another Thai kingdom was called |
| In Thailand, evidence of the ornament designs, partly, | | | | Ayutthaya. |
| have been studied through the accessories of | | | | Ayutthaya was situated to the south of Chao Phraya |
| Buddha images or the kings' and members of royal | | | | Basin surrounded by three rivers: Lopburi River, Chao |
| families' ornamentations. This is because, in the past, | | | | Phraya River and Pasak River. Such a location made |
| the ornaments showed social status. There were | | | | Ayutthaya an appropriate spot for trading, for |
| orders imposed, which clearly stated which caste | | | | communication and goods forwarding, especially from |
| could use which ornaments, or objects. For example, | | | | India and China. Ayutthaya became the centre of |
| the number of ornaments a person belonging to a | | | | trading in Southeast Asia. The civilization and power |
| certain order of precedence can wear and what kind | | | | of the kingdom enabled Ayutthaya to annex |
| of objects can be worn; a person of a certain status | | | | neighbouring states, including Sukothai. Eventually they |
| can or cannot wear a certain object; if a person | | | | were all called the Kingdom of Siam. The evidence |
| violates the order, what punishment it will be. These | | | | showing the prosperity and wealth of the kingdom of |
| rules do not only apply to ornamentation but also to | | | | Ayutthaya is the gold work discovered at Wat |
| clothing. For instance, a person of certain status | | | | Mahatath. The goldsmiths in Ayutthaya are renowned |
| should wear flower prints with patterns and colours. | | | | for producing the best goldsmithing era that is as well |
| Or, for an ornament made of gold decorated with | | | | skilful as those in our country. Goldsmiths can |
| diamonds, only the king can wear. Or, Rachavadee | | | | produce gold-silver work in thousands of styles, all of |
| enamelled gold ornaments are worn by the prince or | | | | which are very beautiful. Gold and silver inlaid work is |
| princess. Gold ornaments are allowed to wear only by | | | | very cleanly neat, including the brilliant lines added |
| the prince (in the grandchild generation of the king.) | | | | superbly; they use little water to weld the gold and |
| Aristocrats who are not Praya (a nobleman higher in | | | | inlay with gold and silver so skilfully that it is difficult |
| rank than Pra, lower than Chao Praya) can wear | | | | to identify which part is the seam. |
| silver objects. Ordinary people use copper. | | | | The examples of Ayutthaya jewellery are specifically |
| In studying documents written in the past, the word | | | | from the mid and late Ayutthaya periods because of |
| ornament did not exist. However, there are words | | | | the war with Burma, but very few remain. However, |
| categorizing ornaments into two categories: | | | | from studying sculptures, such as the images of |
| Siraphorn, which means head ornaments and | | | | bodhisattva, or the jewellery on the full dressed |
| Thanimpimpaphorn, which means body, and head | | | | Buddha images, there were ornaments decorated |
| ornaments (Siraphorn.) These define positions and | | | | with 'Prajamyam ', 'Dokjan flower', flowery or flowers |
| the order of precedence (or estate or feudalistic | | | | in rhombus frame, 'Kra Chang ' or triangle patterns. |
| status) (Fine Arts department 1993, P. 34). | | | | The Buddha images found can be divided into two |
| Furthermore, apart from the four necessities for | | | | groups:o The first group of jewellery sacred for the |
| maintaining life, food, clothing, medicines and shelter, | | | | Buddha images is similar to the characteristics like the |
| which are the fundamental needs, human beings also | | | | ones inscribed. That is, the head ornaments are |
| want to have facilities and other objects for the ritual | | | | decorated with a series of coils overlapping upwards |
| of life, they want to attain the spirituality of mind, | | | | to form a high cone-shape top. The heads are still of |
| which make life more complete, sacrificing a basic | | | | the same style with general Buddha images, which |
| cycle of life; birth, old age, suffering, and death. They | | | | show the heads and the rays.o The second group of |
| also want to differentiate themselves and show | | | | jewellery sacred for the Buddha images with clear |
| self-importance to society. In the past, body | | | | development (evolved from the first group of |
| decoration with natural objects such as colours from | | | | Buddha images) in terms of ornamentation. (Chao |
| natural resources for painting, flowers, leafs, feathers, | | | | Sam Praya National Museum, Ayutthaya and Pra |
| shells, bones, canine teeth, ivory, etc., were brought | | | | Nakorn National Museum, Bangkok leaflet 2000) |
| into use. Such decoration is for the purpose of | | | | What they have in common are that the lockets are |
| beauty or power or expression of courage. | | | | in the broad shape like wide collars; there are strings |
| This simply shows one's pleasure and self-uniqueness, | | | | of ornaments hung from the lockets called Tub |
| which usually happens in every society in the world. | | | | suang, which were made as broad gold sheets. The |
| This, also, shows the fundamental relation between | | | | gold sheets were made in different pieces that could |
| human beings and jewellery from the past until the | | | | be joined. The front of the locket, at the lowest |
| present. Although jewellery is not part of the needs | | | | part, is made as a big broad gold sheet with many |
| for life, they are objects generating one's fulfilments | | | | peaks and with big 'dokchan ' patterns beautifully |
| and regarded as important for one's mind, which has | | | | inlaid with colourful rubies. Other gold sheets are also |
| an influence on one's living. The designs and objects | | | | decorated with patterns and inlaid with precious |
| brought into body decoration or to ornament | | | | stones (Judhawipak 2002, P.42-43).o Other |
| production have evolved from a particular period of | | | | ornaments are crowns, earrings, Pahurad and arm |
| time and objects found. | | | | bracelets. Pahurad is a little bigger than an arm |
| Evolution of Jewellery In Relation to Buddhism | | | | bracelet, which they can resemble. More precisely, |
| Based upon archaeological evidence, records and | | | | the differences are that the lower part of Pahurad is |
| other documents, including jewellery discovered at a | | | | concave and its upper part is pointed. For the arm |
| number of ancient sites, Thai jewellery together with | | | | bracelet, both its upper and lower frames are even |
| its stories and evolution have existed along with Thai | | | | (Chao Sam Praya National Museum, Ayutthaya and |
| history. The designs of the ornaments have been | | | | Pra Nakorn National Museum, Bangkok leaflet, 2000). |
| developed according to the change of period and to | | | | Their patterns and designs can be compared with |
| the influence of a certain belief of a particular period. | | | | those of dressed sculptures created in the |
| All the ornaments are used as sacred items. The | | | | subsequent period. But sometimes the Buddha |
| popular ones are in the forms of, for example, fig | | | | images were not fully dressed with all the jewellery |
| leaves, leaves of a papal tree, which has a heart-like | | | | mentioned. |
| shape and are believed to be sacred leaves of a | | | | The prosperity of Ayutthaya lasted for four hundred |
| heavenly tree. Among a variety of precious items | | | | and seventeen years. Burmese in B.E.2310 destroying |
| discovered and brought into ornamentation, gold is | | | | historical evidences burnt those. |
| the most popular and most widely used because of | | | | Later in the same year, Pra Chao Taksin brought |
| the neatly of its colour, brightness, its good quality, | | | | liberty to the country and established Thonburi as the |
| rustlessness, rarity and its expensive price. Another is | | | | capital city. Thonburi was the capital for fifteen |
| the use of precious stones in Thailand related to the | | | | years, during which time the city was constantly at |
| belief of colours of Hinduism. Countries in the eastern | | | | war, thus no clear evidence of gold work could be |
| part of the world are, to a certain extent, influenced | | | | found. Subsequently, Chao Praya Chakri established |
| by India's art, culture and practice. Thailand received | | | | Rattanakosin, an era as the capital in B.E. 2325, which |
| certain ideas about ornamentation in the tenth | | | | was restored and prospered until becoming Thailand, |
| century and descended until the eighteenth century | | | | the centre of art and culture, economics and trading, |
| where Thailand evolved its own characteristics of | | | | as today. For jewellery, there has been schematic |
| jewellery according to the change of time. Such | | | | development until the present time. The first king |
| precious stones brought into body ornamentation are | | | | brought the customs and restrictions of Ayutthaya |
| of nine kinds, called Nawarattana. They are coral | | | | back into use again, including the rules of gold usage |
| reefs, topaz, sapphire, ruby, a bort, a brilliant, an | | | | in the court, including the restrictions on dressing and |
| emerald, zircon, garnet. However, it (Nawarattana) is | | | | ornamentation according to status, the prohibition |
| defined differently in some books. That is, | | | | against certain kinds of gold ornaments made for |
| Nawarattana are sacred objects that are: pearl, ruby, | | | | ordinary people. This is because after the changes |
| topaz, diamond, emerald, lapis lazuli, coral reefs, | | | | resulting from being beaten by the Burmese, the old |
| sapphire and garnet, all of which are the colours of | | | | orders, institutions and impositions were omitted. |
| the three gems of Deva or of the nine planets of | | | | Significantly, jewellery as a sacred object is full of |
| the solar system. There is Lapis lazuli but not | | | | decorations for religion, ornamentation, golden gifts, |
| zircon.The nine precious stones representing Deva | | | | golden set of items for worshipping the Buddha have |
| are:o Pearl representing the colour of the full moono | | | | been expressed in the old Thai styles, being restored |
| Ruby representing the colour of the suno Topaz | | | | and encouraged to recognize the golden work of the |
| representing the colour of Jupitero Diamond | | | | Rattankosin period. (Pra Nakorn National museum, |
| representing the colour of Venuso Emerald | | | | Bangkok 2000) Jewellery as sacred objects show |
| representing the colour of Mercuryo Coral reefs | | | | how creative the royal goldsmiths were, being able |
| representing the colour of Marso Sapphire | | | | to create and impose certain forms of gold work to |
| representing the colour of Saturno Cat's eye | | | | show the status of estate of Buddhism in Thai |
| representing the colour of the waxing moon (1st half | | | | people's minds clearly and most appropriately. |
| of lunar month)o Garnet representing the colour of | | | | Moreover, the traditional belief in the relation of |
| the waxing moon (2nd half of lunar month.) (Fine | | | | Buddhist culture to jewellery in Thailand symbolizes |
| Arts Department, 1993, p.159) | | | | the use of precious colour stones such as rubies, |
| Historically, based upon archaeological evidence, during | | | | emeralds etc. that heritages since the Ayutthaya |
| the Davaravadee period, small blast furnaces and | | | | period, as can be seen in many types of jewellery. |
| moulds for jewellery casts were used. Most of the | | | | According to traditional belief (Chandawit 1992, P. 36), |
| golden work of the Davaravadee period was found in | | | | Thai people believe there is a guardian angel for each |
| the ancient cities in the central part of Thailand, such | | | | day of the week (Ibid 1992 P. 43-44). Each angel has |
| as the ancient cities of Uthong, Supanburi, Srithep, | | | | an individual skin colour. |
| Petchboon, Srimahosod, Prachinburi and | | | | This belief was referred to by Sunthornphu, who |
| Nakornprathom. The oldest golden work in Thailand | | | | describes the following seven auspicious colours, one |
| can be grouped into two kinds. The first one is | | | | for each day of the week: |
| religious golden work; Buddha images or items used in | | | | Sunday: wearing red will bring the wearer good luck |
| important religious worship, for example, the reposing | | | | Monday: wearing white denotes long life |
| form of Buddha images, or bodhisattva images. | | | | Tuesday: blue&purple will bless the wearer with |
| Another is the golden jewellery found on the | | | | grace |
| sculptures in ascetic places, which were at the time | | | | Wednesday: the day for wearing green |
| parts of people's lives. There are head-ornaments, | | | | Thursday: orange should be worn with a dash of |
| earrings, necklaces, belts, arm and wrist ornaments, | | | | yellow |
| whose designs were influenced by India. The | | | | Friday: grey will bring victory in battle |
| characteristics of Davaravadee's jewellery are as | | | | Saturday: the day to array oneself in purple |
| followso Necklaces: The necklaces of the period of | | | | In the National Museum in Bangkok, there is a |
| Davaravadee are of various designs. They are | | | | collection of clothes belonging to King Rama IV |
| octagon-like, star gooseberry- like, star apple- like, | | | | (1851-1868) in these seven auspicious lucky colours. |
| rattan ball-like shaped golden bead-necklaces found at | | | | As fashion changed, the rule was modified. Traced |
| the ancient city of Uthong, Supanburi.o Lockets: The | | | | from a classical novel, Si-phandin 'Four Reigns' |
| lockets found are of various designs. They are in a | | | | (Pramoj, 1948,P.49) during the reign of King Rama V |
| round shape, like that of the Wheel of Dharma | | | | (1868-1910), colours for everyday clothing were |
| decorated with either long bell-like, or upturned end | | | | defined as follows: (for the lower wrap/for the |
| triangle-liked shapes with diamonds at the centre. This | | | | shoulder sash) |
| evidence confirms that symbols in Buddhism have | | | | Sunday: green/red or lichee red or pig's blood red |
| been strongly represented in jewellery for a long | | | | yellow green |
| time.o Earrings: The earrings found are of various | | | | Monday: pale yellow/pale blue or deep |
| designs and sizes. The styles discovered mostly are | | | | magenta;pigeon blue/champa red |
| in the shape of a bulb or pear, the ends of which | | | | Tuesday: salmon pink or light purple/yellow green or |
| turn to each other. The earrings are created either | | | | yellow green/pale purple |
| with gold with or without patterns. Some have small | | | | Wednesday: iron grey/yellow ochre |
| seeds of diamonds decorated around the rim.o Rings: | | | | Thursday: leaf green/bird blood red or orange/pale |
| The rings are of various designs, such as those with | | | | green |
| gold without pattern, those with colour stones | | | | Friday: deep blue/yellow |
| decorated on top and those gold coiled around.o | | | | Saturday: light purple/yellow green |
| Other ornaments: They are, for example, small parts | | | | The belief in the relationship between colours and |
| of golden ornaments assumed to be parts of head | | | | guardian angels was expressed through relating |
| ornaments. | | | | colours of gemstones suitable for individual birthdays. |
| Other found items are beads, earrings and gold | | | | For instance, |
| flakes, including equipment made of gold. The | | | | Sunday: Garnet |
| prosperity in trading was important for about five | | | | Monday: Pearl |
| hundred years. From the eleventh to sixteenth | | | | Tuesday: Yellow sapphire |
| century, the new centre of trading became the | | | | Wednesday: Emerald |
| kingdom of ancient Khmer, which grew in the east | | | | Thursday: Cat's eye |
| and expanded to Davaravadee and Srivichai. | | | | Friday: Moonstone |
| From the twelfth to eighteenth century, the Khmer | | | | Saturday: Blue sapphire (Boonprakob 1999, P. 24) |
| influence expanded to the east, the northeast and to | | | | To conclude, the development of jewellery as a |
| some parts of central Thailand. Stone inscriptions | | | | sacred object in the context of Thai Buddhist Culture |
| were found. There were records of religious | | | | in various facets throughout the different eras |
| activities, sacred images and worship items made of | | | | enabled Thailand to be prosperous, especially in Thai |
| gold, including the imposition on gold use restricted to | | | | people's minds today. When minds are fulfilled and |
| the king. For instance, the imposition was from the | | | | uplifted, human resources then benefit through the |
| Ayutthaya period based upon the Deva belief in | | | | development of education, government, economy, |
| Khmer culture, which was the important convention in | | | | science, tradition, customs, art and culture, including |
| governing the kingdom and completely validated again | | | | the preservation of peace for over two hundred |
| that essences of religion have been brought into | | | | years. Jewellery, a main facet of this scared culture, |
| jewellery. From archaeological evidence from the | | | | has therefore been influenced by such development |
| northeastern part, gold ornaments were found such | | | | in order to be consistent with the way of life. |
| as necklaces, rings, and earrings. They were | | | | Beyond the mere issue of its design, jewellery has |
| discovered around Phnom Rung Stone Castle, | | | | been developed to fit the use, social and cultural |
| Buriram. Golden rings inlaid with jewels and See Sao | | | | condition of the Thai people. |
| style braided gold necklaces were found at Pimai | | | | |