Travel in Beijing - From the Emperors' Sacred Altar to the Lamas' Holy Site

To get to the Earth Altar is quite easy. Simply takelikely to run into stalls selling various types of
subway line #2, and get off at ANDINGMEN station.incenses. Most of them sell for less than RMB 10, a
Exit through Exit A, and turn right onto thelittle cheaper than inside the temple. In the Buddhist
ANDINGMENWAI DAJIE. Take a look around. Here,religion, people burn incenses while they pray.
the word traffic is synonymous with 'traffic jam': inThe entrance fee to the lamasery is RMB 25.
the past decade the number of cars in Beijing streetsYonghegong Lamasery
has been soaring, and this phenomenon shows noUnder Buddha's Gaze...Built in 1649 in the early Qing
sign of slowing. Your eyes will probably stop at theDynasty, the Yonghegong Lamasery first served as
familiar faces of KFC and McDonald's, among an arraythe residence of then-prince Yin Zhen, the fourth son
of fast food restaurants.of Emperor Kang Xi. Yin Zhen later succeeded Kang
Earth Altar: where Emperors Pray Affluence for HisXi on the imperial throne, and moved into the
SubjectsForbidden City. In 1744, he converted his former
Earth Altar Park - Initially built in 1533 to serve as theresidence to a lamasery, as part of an overall plan to
place where emperors of Ming and Qing dynastieshelp govern the religious policy of Tibet and Mongolia,
offered (non human) sacrifices to the 'Supreme Rulertwo geographically important regions of China.
of the Earth', the Altar played an important role inOne of the westmost ethnic groups in China, the
the country's political life then. It was erected as theTibetans have their own religion--Tibetan Buddhism--a
counterpart of the Altar of Heaven (or Temple ofBuddhist branch which arrived from India around the
Heaven) that lies in the southern part of the town. Inlate eighth century. Buddhist monks practice Tibetan
ruins for many years, the altar was restored a fewBuddhism daily at a lamasery, like this one in the
years ago, and now offers a lovely venue to thecapital. A Buddhist spiritual leader is usually called a
locals.Dalai Lama. Since becoming a lamasery, YongHegong
Just walk down the street 5 minutes: you will arriveLamasery has housed several Dalai Lamas.
at an ancient gate on your right, quite distinguishableAs one of the most important lamaseries in China for
from the surrounding high-rises. This is our first stopcenturies, the Yonghegong lamasery not only serves
for the day.as a temple, but also as a conduit for the central
The entrance fee is a couple of yuans. The park isgovernment to govern Tibet. Even today, it serves
quite tranquil and photogenic, with rows of Gingkoas an "embassy" between the central government
Biloba trees. Its ancient walls have much charm.and the Tibetan Buddhist community.
Follow the road signs to visit, they are written inThe layout of the temple is similar to that of the
both Chinese and English. The park actually houses aForbidden City-the main halls align along a central axis,
series of ancient structures, the most prominentwith side buildings flanking them. The main structure
being, of course, the Earth Altar. The altar lies in afeatures 5 main halls: the Hall of Heavenly Kings, the
central axis; other auxiliary structures flank it. EachHall of Harmony and Peace, the Hall of Everlasting
had its own functions. Zai Sheng Ting, for instance,Protection, the Hall of the Wheel of Law, and the
was where the animals were slaughtered andPavilion of Infinite Happiness. In addition to various
prepared for the offerings. Zhai Gong, on the otherBuddha statues decorating each of the halls, the
hand, served as the residence of the emperor duringtemple also houses a sea of Buddhist treasure:
the annual ceremony. It has been renovated, andsutras, wheels of law, tangkas, and many more.
transformed into a waxwork museum.Stroll around the temple at your leisure. Make sure
The most renowned Earth Altar or Fang Ze Tan isyou do not miss the giant 18 meter Buddha statue in
square. It was built to resemble the shape of thethe Pavilion of Infinite Happiness before you leave.
Earth as it was perceived in ancient china. ItThe statue was carved out of a single piece of
comprises two levels, and covers an area of aboutsandalwood! And yes, it's in the Guinness Book of
2,000 square meters. Giant tripods served to burnWorld Records.
incense, and offer the sacrificial animals. The altar isShould you wish to offer a prayer to Lord Buddha,
enclosed by stone gates and walls. The significant ofthere are various methods. The simplest is to kneel
Huang Qi Shi or the "Earth God Worship House" is asdown in front of the statue, lower your head, close
important, though lesser known. It lies next to theyour eyes, and make an earnest request. Other
Earth Altar. A place of rituals and worship, the hallpeople might proceed differently. Never mind, the
was used by emperors to offer sacrifices to variousmost important thing is to be sincere. If you bought
lower-ranked gods: the gods of mountains, and thesome incense, you can light several sticks before
gods of seas. The atmosphere here is quite tranquil,praying.
and everything you see lends an air of greatness andOf course, no tourist destination is complete without
sacredness to the place. You will shell out ansouvenirs shops. And the YongHe Lamasery harbors
additional RMB 5 to visit both sites. Other sites areseveral of them for your gift and souvenir needs.
free of charge.They carry beautiful handicrafts, gifts, and
Let's head now to the Yonghegong lamasery. Exitaccessories from the Tibetan region-'the roof of the
the park through its southern gate. Walk for 5world', and 'the land of Yat and Yeti'. Prices are
minutes to the YONGHEGONG Bridge and the 2ndreasonable, especially for a touristic hallmark.
ring road. You can see here the YONGHEGONGHow to Return
subway station where lines 2 and 5 cross. Get acrossWhen you are finished, simply exit the temple at the
the street to walk to YONGHEGONG DAJIEfront gate (southern gate). Here you may either walk
(Yonghegong St). Look around: your eyes will catchsouthward for 5 minutes to get to the BEIXINQIAO
the beautiful red wall which surrounds the temple.station on subway line #5, or simply walk northward
Renovated on a regular basis, they are still in goodto return to the YONGHEGONG station, on subway
condition today. Stroll on for 5 minutes, and you willline #2.
reach the temple entrance. Along the way, you are