Walking Between Kathmandu & Tibet - Day Three

WILD MAN AT THE DOORWe ate the same basic Dhal Bhat dinner as the night
The next morning our gang mulled over the uselessbefore sitting out doors and watching the quiet
map again as a symbolic gesture of planning. Ratherroutine of the small village. As the sun edged beneath
then go back up the same valley we had just comethe horizon all of the villagers seem to edge beneath
down the day before, we choose an obscure andtheir blankets. By 8PM again their was no sound or
rarely traveled path up the ridge above.light in the village.
I ask a local village man how difficult the trail was andEarlier that day as we hiked to Syapargaon I noticed
he answered quite frankly: "Not difficult for us, butsome very interesting plant life. Just growing among
for you I think quite difficult". How I rememberedthe many other plants were alot of weeds of some
those words as I slowly ascended that steep goatrepute (marijuana). My whole life this common
for path for the next 5 hours and 3000 feet.Himalayan plant had been the much coveted,
My God!! Why did I choose this path? I don't want toexpensive, and highly illegal recreational high.
admit to how wimpy I can sound, but my mantra theAs a meditator, I no longer had much interest in
entire afternoon of vertical ascent was: "I must begetting high, but could resist picking ups some of the
crazy to do this!" and "I hate this.""weeds" that were quite literally strewn along the
I spearheaded our vertical ascent to the ridge. Thepath we were walking on.
trail was so steep in places you had to wrap yourThat night in the guest house when I emptied my
arm around small trees to drag yourself up to thepockets I found the little temptation. Neither Kirsten
next level. My legs felt like alternately like lead andor I were pot smokers, but as it was early evening
then later wobbly like rubber. Moving them was andand we felt like it might be entertaining.
exhausting labor. The straps of my backpack cut intoRemember my opening lines of this story? "Oh My
my back as I didn't have the waist belt to disperseGod! I didn't realize what I was getting myself into!"
the weight.Once again as we tempted fait our realities were
It seemed like all day, but eventually the ridge gainuniquely turned up side down.
and we traveled a small distance through smallFirst, the Himalayan pot was extremely strong. As I
enclaves of Himalayan farm houses. The ridgewas whirling around from the effects there came a
afforded a view of terraced rice fields that willloud banging at the door and some incoherent yells.
perfectly accented by the after noon sun. In oneI immediately became paranoid imagining all kind of
small court yard by a farmhouse temple, I paused topolice actions and unrealistic horrors that could await
photograph prayer flags fluttering and the valley faroutside that door. I hid the remaining marijuana on a
below. What a vista! It was at once a simple and yetrafter and opened the door,.....
incredibly moving experience.A wild eyed village who spoke no more then 10
After an hour or so we arrived to a rarely visitedwords in English came in and was gesturing madly
village called Syapargaon. Our presence was dulywith his hands in a desperate expressions. He was
noted by everyone and yet they didn't overwhelmimploring me to come out into the night for some
us. While it was still light I started to wash myunknown reason. I was so stoned that the event
sweaty T-shirt in the stream that ran thru the villagewas amplified into a shocking drama. What could he
center. A funny scene insued as the headman of thewant? Why was he here? Finally,through sign
village arrived and with an air of bravado threw hislanguage I was able ascertain that someone was hurt
worn shirt in my laundry pile by the stream. It wasand they needed a doctor.
very amusing to all.It is an unfortunate myth, that all travelers are
In the village, we found lodging in a traditional Tibetanconsidered to have both medicine and doctoring that
style tea house that was decorated with all kinds ofthe villagers need in emergencies. Fortunately, I did
simple rugs, woven textiles and the myriad of smallhave some iodine and aspirin and passed them to this
items of the typical Himalayan home. It was not juststranger giving him an idea of how to use. I hoped he
for travelers, but someone lived there full time. Igot it. He still wanted me to come, but I refused. I
suppose they may have just vacated their home towas not a doctor and I did not want to wander off
rent us the space for a night.somewhere in the dark Himalayan night.
Rob & Julie took a different tea house slightlyThese were my back up supplies, but under the
up the hill. It seemed that no traveler ever came tocircumstances I just gave them away. Wow. Bizarre.
Syapargaon and we were a very big boost for theWho know what actually happened, but I was glad
local economy. This was even more evident whento help out. I was glad the whole shocking drama
our little group had dinner together at our guestwas over. Kirsten and I had gotten a whole lot more
house. Apparently, this was a big boon as the dinnersentertainment then we bargained for. Sleep would be
usually ran about 100 Rps ($2.) per person. The othera great relief after this wildman at the door.
guest house was visible perturbed. What to do?Look for Day Four coming soon!